By Jamin Buttafarro

In December, President Obama announced the United States will be working to reform its relationship with Cuba, citing cultural ties between the two countries despite their political differences. Regulations have imposed a divide between the two million Cuban-Americans and the country where they live, work, and raise families. Despite the ongoing troubles of the political affairs between the two nations, Cuban culture and heritage is present in Boston.

Recently, I came across the Old Havana Cuban restaurant in Jamaica Plain. Located about a block away from the Jackson Square Station stop on the Orange Line, a friend and I stopped in, hoping to get a taste of Cuban culture.

Old Havana is set in a charming building decorated with checkered walls and many mirrors. A large print of a map of Cuba is on display and traditional music plays over speakers.  Soft, multi-colored light fixtures hang down from the ceiling and there are plenty of tables for eating, drinking and relaxing.

As soon as we entered, we were greeted by the bubbly Wendy Tejeda, who owns and operates the restaurant with her partner Sixto Lopez. We chose a tall table by the windows while Tejeda brought us a basket of fresh garlic bread along with the menus, and made sure we were comfortable.

As we browse the menu, a nearby table with a family of three greeted us and shared that they are regular patrons of Old Havana.

We chatted for a while and after they shared their top must-try dishes, my friend and I checked out the menu for ourselves.

The menu is concise, with appetizers, sandwiches, and sections for beef, chicken, seafood, and vegetarian options.  Everything on the menu is authentic Cuban fare, from a myriad of tropical fruit-based smoothies to homemade black beans and rice.  We decided on three appetizers to start: Homemade Corn Tamales, Pork Croquettes, and Churros with Salsa di Guava.

The tamales are wrapped in a plantain leaf and have a savory and creamy texture.  The croquettes are crunchy with a creamy pork filling that pairs perfectly with the spicy sauce served on the side.  The churros are sweet and come with a side of cinnamon sugar.  Each churro is topped with salsa di guava made from guava fruit, a wonderful balance to the savory tamales and croquettes.

I chose to wash the appetizers down with a fresh mamey shake, the national fruit of Cuba. It was thick and creamy without being overly sweet.

For the main course, we chose two of the dishes that were suggested to us:  shrimp and mofongo, a mashed plantain dish, and shredded beef with rice and beans. The jumbo shrimp were set in a sweet and spicy sauce filled with an assortment of peppers.  The mofongo has a consistency similar to stuffing and is savory and multi-textured.

The flavor is rich, with a mild sweetness from the plantains and the traditional elements of Cuban spices.  The shredded beef was extremely tender, and peeled apart easily with a fork.  The beef has a full-flavored sauce with a fresh variety of peppers.  The rice is sticky, textured, fresh and steaming underneath the cup that helped form it into a dome on the plate.

The black beans come served in their own crock, steaming hot and sitting in a black bean broth.  The flavors of the authentic cumin spice give the black beans a zing, and they ended up being my favorite element of the whole meal (although the mofongo was only a thread behind).  We finished the meal with Cuban coffee: double shots of Cuban espresso served in small cups and made frothy and sweet.

After the meal, I had a chance to talk with Tejeda, and she told me about her experience bringing authentic Cuban cuisine to Boston.

“I have been here for one year,” said Tejeda excitedly, obviously passionate about the business she has built at Old Havana.  “I love the American people and they love to eat here.  They are very grateful for the food.”

The Old Havana Cuban Restaurant in Jamaica Plains is a fantastic place to start your relationship with Cuban culture. The warm and inviting Cuban heritage that people like Tejeda share with the city is one of the many experiences every Suffolk community member should try during their time living in Boston.

Warning, some of the dishes served at Old Havana are best experienced by calling 30 minutes before arriving to give the chefs a chance to make their preparations for the authentic, from scratch Cuban cooking, meaning no pre-made sauces or ingredients.  Call ahead to ask about these options.